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Nature’s Way Resources owner John Ferguson, “The Lazy Gardener” Brenda Beust Smith and Pablo Hernandez welcome your feedback and are so grateful to the many horticulturists who contribute their expertise

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BY BRENDA BEUST SMITH (aka The Lazy Gardener) 

If you think it’s hot out there, imagine what your plants must be feeling! But there’s no reason to just ignore the garden in August (tho that’s what most of us probably would like to do). Instead, make notes of the plants that look the worst. Then see if you can fill in with some “WE CAN TAKE IT!” annuals like mums, zinnias, cockscomb (celosia), that should hold color. It’s risky to invest too much in plantings this month.

Normally by now, my roof-high giant white milkweed is covered with flowers (see insert). But probably the intense heat has her blooms coming out late.

THIS MONTH YOU REALLY SHOULD …
• Watch for hummingbirds! Soon migrating species come through. Keep feeders clean, full.

• Give perennials, annuals, roses and fall-blooming shrubs a light feeding and slight haircut.

• Order a free best fall vegetable varieties planting list from your county Extension Service / Master Gardeners.

• Prune deadwood from trees. Hurricane season’s here.

• Let cactus roots dry out (callous over) before replanting. Plant in well drained spot.

• Keep the lawn well watered but keep sprinkler (if used) as LOW as possible to eliminate some evaporation. Mow more often to force sideways growth to fill in bare areas. 

• Water less often, but leave the sprinkler on for an extended period (watch for runoff). Shallow waterings encourage problems.

IF THE SPIRIT MOVES. . . .

• Set out fall tomatoes (plants), green onions, cucumbers, corn and green beans. Water ONLY at base of plant.

• Later in month, start (& protect) seeds of broccoli, cabbage, chard, garlic, kohlrabi, squash. When temperatures drop in September, plant in garden. Or, protect new seedlings from hot afternoon sun with newspaper or cloth shade.

• Feed plumerias toward the end of this month with a high phosphorus (high middle number) fertilizer. Hibiscus like a low-phosphorus fertilizer.

• In the water garden, feed all water plants.

IF YOU’RE FEELING REALLY ENERGETIC . . .

• Work organic matter into beds. This holds water in a form plants can use.

• Visit nurseries for great clearance sales on plants as they make room for fall stocks.

• Prune newly-purchased plants slightly and soak in a rooting stimulant before planting.

• Collect the air conditioning drip water for potted plants. They’ll love it.

• Divide crowded iris. Remove old foliage. 

• Remove moisture-grabbing weeds or smother under a thick mulch.

• Potted hybrid (modern) roses may need watering twice a day.

GREAT DON’T DO! Tips for REALLY Lazy Gardeners

• Don’t cry over plants that die in the heat of August. They don’t belong in Lazy Gardens!

• Don’t assume dead plants are really dead. Some, like maidenhair and other ferns, oxalis, some roses, phlox and German primroses, may just be dormant (natural heat protection) and will return in fall.

• Pinching faded flowers prolongs bloom periods and is a good way to relieve stress (yours).

• Stop feeding and watering potted amaryllis. Lay pots on sides out of the way (to remind you not to water). When foliage dies, cut it off.

• Don’t fertilize a heat-stressed lawn. (Okay to apply seaweed extract or fish emulsion.)

If you just want flowers to be pretty now through, say, the rest of this year, probably doesn’t matter where you buy them. But if you want them to last through winter and beyond, follow the advice above. For all of them, however, and existing plants, it’s better to put the hose at the base of the plant and let it run for a while, so the water goes straight down before it starts to evaporate.

And remember, your area’s independent nurseries want you to succeed (they survive on happy customers) as much as you do. Ask their advice if you’re not sure what to plant where.

* * *

John’s Corner

NEWS FROM THE WONDERFUL WORLD

OF SOIL AND PLANTS 

Subject: Mulches

This past Saturday at OHBAPALOOZA, the speaker stated his favorite mulch was shredded leaves. From some of the comments from the audience, many people are still unaware of the quality of different types of mulch. In the Houston area, we have over 20 types of mulch being sold to consumers. Mulch can be broken into three basic types based on its quality and usage. These types are Biological, Commercial, and Industrial.

Biological – This is the highest quality mulch and therefore the most beneficial in improving soils, preventing disease, protecting plants, etc. It has a low carbon-to-nitrogen ratio so it does not steal nitrogen from the soil and weaken or stress plants. It has been composted to kill weed seeds and pathogens. Composted “native mulch” and “coarse screened compost” are examples of this class of mulch. The bag will have holes in it so that air can enter, allowing the beneficial microbes to breathe and be kept alive. This mulch will typically sell retail for $7-10 per bag (2 cubic feet). Shredded leaves would be in this class.

Commercial – This is a middle grade of mulch made from tree barks (pine, hardwood, etc.) and is the most common. It will be in a sealed bag and may have a sour, stale, or strong odor. It has a high carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and robs soil of nitrogen and other nutrients. Tends to float off in heavy rains, develop unsightly molds or fungal mats, and may attract fire ants or termites. This mulch will typically sell retail for $4-6 per bag (2 cubic feet bag). They also tend to be very flammable.

Industrial – This is the lowest grade of products called mulch. It is made from industrial waste like old pallets, construction wood, etc. It is often chemically burned black with industrial waste, it will sometimes rub off in your hand, and it is often dyed various colors. It may contain arsenic from CCA treated waste wood. It has a very high carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and robs nitrogen and other nutrients from the soil for a long time. It may be extremely alkaline and high in toxic salts. It is often harmful to plants and soil and creates many problems, as well as being flammable. This product will typically sell retail for $3-4 per bag (2 cubic feet). Mulch or compost made from toxic sewage sludge is found here even though it will be given some friendly sounding name.

So, what’s a gardener to do? The top three mulches depending on what we want to accomplish are: shredded leaves, aged (partially composted) Native Mulch, and coarse compost.

If one wants to hold moisture and modify soil temperatures then shredded leaves work great and as they break down, they steadily feed your plants.

If you want to turn heavy clay soil into loam, then Native Mulch (aged) is the best choice as it feeds the microbes that break apart clay particles. Earthworms also love it and their tunneling helps aerate the soil.

If the goal is to improve soil quality and feed the plants, then a coarse-screened compost is the way to go.

When I lived in Houston with black gumbo clay soil, I obtained fabulous results by applying 2-3 inches of native mulch and a couple inches of shredded leaves on top of the native mulch. Over time, the clay turned into a rich, fertile loam several feet deep, full of life from microbes to beetles and earthworms.

I rarely used commercial-grade mulches except in special cases, as they just did not perform very well. I never used industrial-grade mulches as they generally harm the soil and are full of toxic chemicals.

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